Things to Do at Tomb of Emperor Khai Dinh

Khai Dinh's tomb looks nothing like the other Nguyen Dynasty tombs - and that's the point. Built between 1920 and 1931, this is a fusion of Vietnamese, French, and Gothic design that scandalized traditionalists and fascinated everyone else. Concrete steps climb a steep hillside through terraces of stone mandarin statues, honor guards, and dragon banisters to a palace that could pass for a European cathedral if it weren't covered floor-to-ceiling in glass and porcelain mosaic. Admission is VND 150,000 (or included in the combo citadel ticket). The tomb sits on a hillside 10 km south of Hue. The climb up the grand staircase through three terraces builds anticipation: stone elephants, horses, and mandarin officials stand at attention as you ascend. The Thien Dinh Palace at the top contains Khai Dinh's bronze tomb statue (he sits enthroned, life-sized) and the most extraordinary mosaic work in Vietnam - walls and ceilings covered in broken glass, porcelain, and beer bottles arranged into phoenix, dragon, and landscape murals. What most people miss: the ceiling mural directly above the tomb. Look up. A massive dragon surrounded by clouds, rendered entirely in broken glass and ceramic fragments, covers the entire ceiling. The detail is staggering - individual scales, whiskers, and claws, all made from shards. Best time is midday when direct light enters the palace windows and illuminates the mosaics. Allow one to two hours. Only a local would know: Khai Dinh was widely disliked for his collaboration with the French, and locals consider his tomb a monument to ego rather than dynasty. The architectural audacity, however, is undeniable. Worth it? The most visually striking tomb in Hue, and completely unlike anything else in Vietnam.

The tomb is 10 km south of Hue on the south bank of the Perfume River. Bicycle (45 minutes from the citadel, flat road along the river), motorbike (20 minutes), or Grab (VND 50,000-80,000). Dragon boat tours on the Perfume River (VND 100,000-200,000) stop at Khai Dinh and other tombs. The tomb of Tu Duc is 5 km further west - combine both in an afternoon. Organized tours from Hue (VND 200,000-400,000) cover multiple tombs in a half day.